shrinking the globe…..

Madrid

After a week in Barcelona, the four of us — Leigh, Steph, Jenn, and I — boarded the AVE high-speed train for Madrid. Spain’s rail system is genuinely impressive, and watching the departure board click over to our train felt like the start of a new chapter.

AVE departure board at Barcelona Sants
Our AVE departure — Madrid Puerta de Atocha, right on schedule.
Curt and Leigh on the AVE high-speed train
Curt and Leigh settled in for the ride. The AVE is comfortable, fast, and easy.
AVE speed display showing 269 km/h
269 km/h — about 167 mph. Not a bad way to cross Spain.

The ride wasn’t long, and before we knew it we were pulling into Madrid’s Puerta de Atocha station — a grand, historic terminal that sets the tone for the city.

Madrid Puerta de Atocha station sign
Madrid Puerta de Atocha — our arrival into the capital.

We took a taxi to the Edition Hotel by Marriott, located on a great pedestrian walkway with plenty of food, dining, and tourism options nearby, and a close-by metro station. The hotel itself was stunning — a boutique property with a distinct artistic style.

Edition Hotel baroque entrance, Madrid
The Edition Hotel — Marriott’s boutique brand, tucked into a gorgeous Madrid building.

Every morning in Madrid started the same way — finding a fantastic little sidewalk café for a cappuccino and a croissant, watching the city wake up around us. The coffee culture here is no joke.

Latte art and croissant at Madrid café
Morning ritual: cappuccino, croissant, and people watching. This never got old.

The Royal Palace of Madrid was a highlight. We happened to arrive during an official procession — mounted guards in full dress, dignitaries arriving, the whole production. A broken-Spanish conversation with a local gendarme revealed it was foreign dignitaries meeting with representatives of the king. The security was no joke either — I spotted a figure on the rooftop keeping watch.

Royal Palace of Madrid wide facade
The Royal Palace of Madrid — the official residence of the Spanish royal family, though they don’t actually live here.
Mounted royal guard procession near the palace
We caught a royal procession of inbound dignitaries — mounted guards, flags, the whole nine yards.
Security detail on palace rooftop
Sharp eyes might spot the security detail on the rooftop. These folks take palace protection seriously.
Rainy cobblestone street in Madrid
Madrid had a couple of really rainy days — but even the rain looked good on these cobblestone streets.
Mounted guards on Madrid streets
Mounted police on the streets of Madrid — a common sight near the palace district.

We visited the Prado Museum, which I had previously seen in 1987 during my last visit to Madrid. Coming back nearly 40 years later was surreal — the collection is as impressive as ever.

Museo del Jamón exterior in Madrid
Museo del Jamón — the “Ham Museum.” It’s exactly what it sounds like, and it’s glorious.

Puerta del Sol is the beating heart of Madrid — a massive plaza that serves as the city’s central gathering point. Street performers, living statues, and tourists from every corner of the world fill the square at all hours.

Puerta del Sol plaza
Puerta del Sol — the center of Madrid and, literally, the center of Spain. Kilometer zero is marked right here.

One evening, we ate at Sobrino de Botín — the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world, established in 1725 and holding a Guinness World Record to prove it. We had reservations along with about a hundred other people when the doors opened at 7 PM. Every server had every table eating the same thing at the same time. The seating was cramped, the service was predictably stretched thin, but the food was good enough and the experience of dining in the world’s oldest restaurant? That’s one for the books.

Dinner at Botín — steak, potatoes, and vegetables on branded plate
Dinner at Sobrino de Botín — est. 1725. The oldest restaurant in the world. The plate says it all.

One of the more memorable experiences in Madrid had nothing to do with palaces or museums — it was buying cookies from cloistered nuns. We stumbled upon the Monasterio del Corpus Christi, known locally as “Las Carboneras,” tucked away on a quiet side street. From the outside, there’s almost nothing to indicate what’s inside — just an ancient wooden door with a small “Venta de Dulces” sign and an intercom buzzer.

Ancient wooden convent door with Venta de Dulces sign
The convent door — blink and you’d walk right past it. The tiny “Venta de Dulces” sign is the only hint.
Steph looking doubtful at the convent door
Steph looking appropriately doubtful. “We’re really doing this?”

You ring the buzzer, speak through the intercom in Spanish (the nuns don’t come out — ever), and then step inside to a small vestibule with a wooden torno — a revolving window built into the wall. You put your money on the turntable, spin it through, and a moment later it comes back with your cookies. No eye contact, no small talk, just pastries through a hole in the wall from women who’ve taken a vow of seclusion. The cookies were just okay, but the experience of finding the hidden convent and buying through the spinny hole was unforgettable.

Reposteria sign and torno revolving window at Monasterio del Corpus Christi
The torno and the Repostería menu — Monasterio del Corpus Christi. Money goes in, cookies come out. No nuns were seen in the making of this purchase.

And then there were the churros. Madrid is serious about its churros con chocolate — thick, hot chocolate for dipping, with fresh churros made right in front of you. The perfect breakfast or late-night snack.

Fresh churros being made in Madrid
Fresh churros being made — Madrid takes this tradition very seriously.
Curt and Leigh selfie on Madrid streets
Curt and Leigh out on the streets of Madrid.
Madrid skyline from the Royal Palace gardens
Madrid’s skyline from the gardens — the city stretches out farther than you’d think.
Royal Palace of Madrid illuminated at night
The Royal Palace at night — beautifully lit and practically empty. A completely different vibe from daytime.
Group at hotel lounge
The four of us at the hotel lounge — a proper send-off for an incredible trip through Spain.

Madrid was the perfect final chapter of our Spain trip. From the high-speed train arrival to the palace processions, the churros, the Prado, and Botín, this city delivered. I really enjoyed Madrid, and I would absolutely go back. Spain as a whole surprised me — three cities, two and a half weeks, and I feel like we barely scratched the surface.