Lisbon might be my favorite European capital. I said “might,” but I’m not really fooling anyone.
We went on a lark for Leigh’s 50th birthday. Why Lisbon? Because once upon a time she had a Pan Am coffee mug with European cities on it — Paris, London, Rome, and Lisbon. Lisbon was the only one she hadn’t checked off. Plus, she grew up on Lisbon Drive in Southern Virginia. Sometimes the universe just lines things up.
The city immediately felt familiar to me. The climate, the water views, the laid-back energy — it reminded me a lot of San Diego, where I grew up. Nice temperatures, friendly and amazing people, and a pace of life that doesn’t feel like it’s trying to keep up with anyone.
Like any European capital, there are the tourist areas where they’ll reel you in from the sidewalk into a café. But the less touristy spots aren’t hard to find, and that’s where the magic is.
The food hall on the river was incredible — one of those places where everything looks good and nothing disappoints. Pastéis de Belém is mandatory. We took a day trip to Cascais and used the train, which is the way to do it — Lisbon’s metro system makes getting around effortless. And if you haven’t done a tuk-tuk tour, you’re missing out.
The Belém District
No visit to Lisbon is complete without a walk through Belém. This is where Portugal launched its Age of Exploration, and the monuments here are a reminder of just how much history this city carries. Three landmarks line the waterfront within walking distance of each other — and each one is worth the trip on its own.
The big town square on the water — Praça do Comércio — was right down the street from where we stayed. It’s the one you see packed with thousands of people during World Cup matches. In person, it’s a massive open plaza surrounded by restaurants, a beer museum, and some of the best food in the city.
Peri-peri sauce is something you can technically find in the States, but trust me — there’s nothing like having it at the source. And if you’re a wine person, do not skip The Lisbon Winery. Despite the name, it’s actually a tasting venue — not a working winery — where sommeliers guide you through Portuguese wines. I’ll say it: Portuguese wines are criminally underrated compared to French, Italian, and California bottles. We love our Portuguese wines.
Oh, and it is genuinely not impossible to have dinner and a bottle of wine for two for 20 euros. Try doing that in Paris.
The Viewpoints
Lisbon is built on seven hills, and the miradouros — the hilltop viewpoints scattered across the city — are where you go to take it all in. Red rooftops cascading down to the Tagus, the 25 de Abril Bridge in the distance, and if you time it right, a sunset that’ll make you forget you have a flight to catch.
