Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik became a bucket list item for me after seeing countless travel blogs and pictures of its unspoiled beauty. We’ve tried to make it a habit to go “off the beaten path” β skip the typical grand cities like Rome, Paris, or London in favor of places that feel a little more like discovering something. And as a Game of Thrones fan who had already been to Northern Ireland and Malta, Dubrovnik completed the trifecta of primary filming locations.
The Drive In
We arrived on KLM to the airport, which sits south of town. Our driver met us for the 30-minute drive north to Sun Gardens β booked through American Express Travel after we couldn’t get availability at the only Marriott in town. The drive to (and past) the walled city was, literally, breathtaking. The views were unreal, as if created by AI or Hollywood. There are a lot of great views out there, but very few that make Leigh gasp. We knew we had a winner.
Sun Gardens Dubrovnik
We checked into a two-bedroom apartment β upgrade courtesy of Amex Platinum, thank you very much β at a property that really had everything. Multiple restaurants, a beach, multiple pools, a market. Had we been interested in never leaving the property, that would have been perfectly fine. Sun Gardens did not disappoint. But we didn’t stay put.
Inside the Walled City
Our week in Dubrovnik was spent mostly inside the walled city. Lots of steps β so many steps β but every turn reveals another stunning view. After a while you can get lost in there and it does begin to all look the same, but the sheer epic views were unbelievable.
The Food & Wine
There were some great restaurants, but our favorite was Lady Pi-Pi β which took us two visits to figure out why it was called that (I won’t spoil the surprise). Get there before they open and order drinks, and you’ll get a table. Otherwise, thou shalt wait. Wood fireplace cooked everything. I ordered the meat plate. It was amazing. I didn’t even care that the french fries were just ok.
The Croatian wine is underrated. Look at a map and see how close Croatia is to Italy, then go try some Croatian wine. Don’t miss the hole-in-the-wall bar overlooking the sea β but get there early if you even want a place to stand, much less sit.
The Cruise Ship Factor
My only knock is the “touristy” nature the eateries in Dubrovnik are trending towards, in line with other busy travel cities. But it’s not there yet. There’s definitely a different vibe when one or two cruise ships are in port, but the ships do have a schedule to keep, and things clear out around sunset for a lovely nighttime experience.
All that said, I would go back to Dubrovnik without question.
Split
Having lacked greatly in our pre-arrival research, we arrived at the tallest building in Croatia β the AC Hotel in Split β which was a 20-minute downhill walk to “town” (where the stuff is), and a 10-minute uphill Uber ride back. My knee hurts.
Diocletian’s Palace & Old Town
Between Diocletian’s Castle and the shops and old town Split, there’s plenty to explore. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site β a living, breathing maze of ancient stone walls, cafΓ©s tucked into alleyways, and one of the most beautiful waterfront promenades in the Mediterranean.
The Waterfront & the Riva
The waterfront in Split had a comfortable Mediterranean feel, with lots of activity, wide sidewalks and a promenade, and plenty of restaurant opportunities. And did I mention gelato?
Tom the Cat β Split’s #1 Tourist Attraction
We also discovered that, according to Google, the top tourist attraction β and only five-star rating β in all of Split was a stray cat named Tom at the harbor. Naturally, we had to find him.
Our first couple of attempts were unsuccessful, but the third time was the charm. We found Tom doing “cat stuff” at the harbor. We brought him some cat food from the local market, and found him again the next day. Good citizens that we are, we left Tom a five-star review, and moved on, wishing him well.
Stadion Poljud β HNK Hajduk Split
No trip to Split is complete without a visit to Stadion Poljud, home of HNK Hajduk Split β one of the most passionate football clubs in Europe, founded in 1911. The stadium tour includes the pitch, the press room, and a museum of Hajduk history.
Split After Dark
While the airport wasn’t as busy as other European cities, it was easy enough to book our flight out on Lufthansa to get back home to the states. I wouldn’t rule out a return visit to Split.