Dubai is one of those places that seems like it shouldn’t exist. Built from the desert by wealthy individuals seemingly one-upping each other with the next tallest, biggest, or most extravagant project, it is a city that has to be seen to be believed. It is the new rising star, and one of the new “it” places to be. There is not a shortage of things to do, but it is definitely not for everyone.
If you are looking for a city with night life, Dubai has it. Unless you define “night life” as having alcohol. Or if you are mistaking it as Vegas.
The airport experience sets the tone immediately. If you fly Emirates, you arrive in their dedicated terminal — ornate, gleaming, and dripping with the kind of wealth you’re about to see everywhere else. If you fly any other airline, you land in the older terminal, which is perfectly functional but feels like a different airport entirely. Passport control was a bit intimidating — individual pods with armed military presence, biometric scans, and very little small talk. Once through, you’re out into the Dubai heat and on your way.
During a three day stayover in Dubai, I chose to do what I was told are a couple of the must do’s. First, I opted to NOT do the city tour, as one of the main points was apparently several stops at souk markets “to test your haggling skills.” That is SO not my cup of tea, I bailed on the whole tour. If you fancy yourself the negotiator, or you live for the 6am garage sale, you may enjoy it, but not this guy.
The Tallest Building in the World
Dubai is home to the Burj Khalifa, currently the tallest building in the world. One does not visit the city with the tallest building without going up it.
There are many sources to go up to floor 124-125, and most of your basic tours go there. I opted to go to 148 (“At The Top SKY”). It was a little more expensive (about US$115), but there are quite a few less people up on 148. At 124/125, there are lots of bodies, all stopping in the middle of everywhere to take lots of photos. The gift shop is packed, and there is a line to go back down when you are done. Floor 148 includes 124/125, and a FastTrack to get back down. You have a lot more room to move around, and you’re offered coffee and dates, and a comfy seating area to relax. There is also now a lounge up at 162, which has more snacks and drinks, and is even more expensive, but for me, 148 was just fine.
The Dubai Mall
The Burj Khalifa is located within the Dubai Mall, which is touted as the World’s Largest Mall. I don’t believe that title does it justice. It is a massive, multi-level structure with plenty of good signage that seems to go forever. That said, it is like every other mall you’ve ever been in — just much, much bigger. But if you are going to check off “World’s Tallest Building,” you also get to check off “World’s Largest Mall” as an added bonus.
The Best Steak of My Life
I stayed at the Marriott Al Jaddaf, which was a perfectly comfortable base for the trip. But the real story here is the restaurant. On a Tuesday evening, I ordered the filet, and I am not exaggerating when I say it was the best steak I have ever had. It melted in my mouth. The wine pairing was excellent, and it didn’t hurt that it was 50% off wine on Tuesdays. If you find yourself in Dubai and staying at or near the Marriott Al Jaddaf, do yourself a favor and get the filet.
The Desert Safari
The other “must do” in Dubai is a Desert Safari. There are no shortage of companies that do this, and they are all in the same general area in the desert. They all seem to offer a pickup at your hotel, a stop at a cheesy store for some high-pressure sales on “traditional garb” to wear (a ghutra — the red and white head wrap — and a thobe, the flowing white robe), a 4×4 romp through the sand dunes of the desert (“Dune Bashing”), posing with a falcon (a few more bucks), and dinner and a show.
We opted for the VIP section of the dinner area for about $20 more, which entitled us to “proper tables” (as opposed to sitting on pillows and eating) and more of a BBQ meal instead of a buffet. We were also treated to camel rides, though we had to choose particular camels. There was an additional camel that costs extra, and we weren’t sure why. Perhaps they went different places, but I wasn’t looking for unlimited mileage or anything, so me and my “free camel” checked off the “Ride a Camel” box as well.
After the activities, you’re brought to the camp for dinner and entertainment. They had a Bedouin tent where you could try on the full traditional outfit — thobe and ghutra — which made for a fun photo op. The evening show featured a tanoura spin dancer, a fire dancer, and a belly dancer, all performing under the desert sky.
Three days was sufficient for Dubai. You can see the Palm Islands from various vantage points, check off the Burj Khalifa, do the Desert Safari, and have a world-class steak. It’s a fascinating city — a testament to what seemingly unlimited money and ambition can build from nothing but sand. Would I go back? Maybe. But three days checked all the boxes.